Foraging

5 Wild Northern Fruits That Taste Tropical

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Bananas, mangoes, pineapples, passionfruit—when we think of tropical-tasting fruits, we generally picture something that had to travel a few thousand miles to get to us.

But you don’t necessarily need to head to the grocery store or hop on a plane to find those flavours.

Scattered through the forests, wetlands, field edges, and other wild places of the northern USA and Canada are fruits that can taste remarkably like banana, mango, pineapple, apricot, citrus, and other decidedly tropical things. Some are reasonably common if you know what you’re looking for. Others require being in exactly the right habitat at exactly the right time.

Before we get into them, the obligatory, but very important, foraging warning: do not use this article as an identification guide. I’ve included some useful identifying characteristics, but they are meant to help point you in the right direction, not confirm something is safe to eat.

Smartphone identification apps can be fantastic for getting you started, but they are not infallible and should never be your sole source for identifying something you intend to eat. I’m a big fan of Samuel Thayer’s books, particularly Sam Thayer’s Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants of Eastern and Central North America, as well as Adam Haritan’s excellent Learn Your Land videos on YouTube. Well-moderated regional Facebook communities, such as Plant & Foraging Identification Workgroup, Midwest Wild Edibles & Foragers Society, and similar groups in your own region, can also put you in touch with experienced identifiers. Use several sources, learn the whole plant, understand potential lookalikes, and get to 100% certainty before eating anything wild. Thayer’s field guide is specifically designed to help verify identifications and distinguish edible plants from confusing or poisonous species.


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With that out of the way, here are five northern fruits that might have you wondering why you bothered buying that mango:

Pawpaw

Asimina triloba

If you were designing a fruit specifically to confuse someone about what latitude they were standing at, you’d probably come up with the pawpaw.

Pawpaw is the largest edible fruit native to North America and a member of the custard-apple family, Annonaceae—a mostly tropical family that also includes soursop. Its native range stretches throughout much of the eastern United States and just sneaks into southern Ontario. It tends to grow as a small understory tree in rich deciduous forest, particularly around river bottoms, floodplains, ravines, and streams, often spreading into colonies.

Identification: Pawpaws have large, alternate leaves that can reach around a foot long, giving patches an unexpectedly lush appearance. The spring flowers are unusual, drooping, and dark reddish-purple. The fruits are large, green, oblong berries that may grow singly or several to a cluster and contain large, shiny brown seeds. USFS Research & Development

When to pick: Pawpaw season generally falls in late summer and early fall, depending on latitude. A ripe pawpaw should soften under gentle pressure and become noticeably fragrant. Fruit that has begun ripening deteriorates quickly, which is something to keep in mind once you find a productive patch. Research from the University of Kentucky found room-temperature shelf life can be only two to four days after harvest. University of Kentucky

What does it taste like? This is where pawpaw earns its place on the list. Depending on the tree, you may get banana, mango, pineapple, citrus, melon, or vanilla notes, all wrapped up in soft, rich, custardy flesh. Kentucky State University describes its flavour as resembling a blend of pineapple, mango, and banana, while University of Maryland Extension adds citrus and vanilla to the mix. Individual wild trees can vary quite a bit, which makes tasting fruit from different patches part of the fun.

Eat the pulp straight from the fruit, being careful to discard the large seeds and skin, or use it in ice cream, custards, puddings, smoothies, quick breads, and other preparations where you might otherwise reach for banana or mango.

Why don’t you see it in stores? Mostly because pawpaw is terrible at being a modern supermarket fruit. It bruises easily, ripens rapidly, and has a very short shelf life. There are growers, farmers markets, and specialty sellers working with pawpaws, but shipping a perfectly ripe one across a continent is a whole different proposition from shipping an apple.


Nannyberry

Viburnum lentago

Nannyberry may be the least glamorous-looking fruit on this list, but don’t let that fool you.

Also called wild raisin or sheepberry, nannyberry is a native viburnum found across a large swath of eastern and central North America. It grows as a large shrub or small tree and can be found along forest edges and in open woods, as well as in moist sites near streams and wetlands. It is remarkably adaptable, however, and can occur in considerably drier places too. I often find them on the edges of country roads and fence lines.

Identification: Look for opposite, oval to narrowly elliptical leaves with finely toothed margins. Nannyberry produces flattened clusters of small creamy-white flowers in spring, followed later by oval drupes that eventually ripen to blue-black. The leaf stalks are somewhat winged, and the plant has distinctive elongated terminal buds that can help with identification. USFS Research & Development

When to pick: The fruits ripen from late summer through fall, often persisting after many other wild fruits are finished. Wait until they are fully dark, soft, and ripe (even a bit wrinkly) rather than grabbing the first colourful ones you see. The fruiting period roughly from August through October.

What does it taste like? Fully ripe nannyberries have a dense, sweet flavour much more reminiscent of dried fruit than of something like a raspberry. The common name “wild raisin” is a pretty good clue. The rich sweetness can veer toward prune or date territory, with a distinctive fruity character that some foragers, myself included, find surprisingly banana-like.

The catch is that each little fruit contains a substantial flat seed, so you don’t get a huge amount of pulp for your effort.

They’re good to nibble from the bush, but a larger haul can be simmered and pushed through a food mill or sieve to produce a thick pulp for jam, fruit butter, sauces, baking, or desserts. Samuel Thayer devotes a full treatment to nannyberry in The Forager’s Harvest, which is well worth consulting before heading out specifically to find it. Forager’s Harvest

Why don’t you see it in stores? Nannyberry simply hasn’t been developed as a significant commercial fruit crop. It is much better known horticulturally as a native shrub or small landscape tree, while wild fruits are important food for birds and other wildlife. Combine that with small fruits and relatively large seeds, and you don’t exactly have the next supermarket blueberry. USDA Plants Database


Sea Buckthorn

Hippophae rhamnoides

Sea buckthorn looks tropical, tastes tropical, and grows happily in places where “tropical” is about the last word you’d use to describe the weather.

Unlike the other plants on this list, sea buckthorn is not native to North America. It originated across Europe and Asia and has been planted widely in colder parts of Canada and the United States for windbreaks, erosion control, landscaping, and fruit production. It can now be found growing feral in many places, especially old farmsteads.

It is exceptionally cold hardy and tolerant of difficult growing conditions. Manitoba Agriculture notes that it can grow on poor soils, riverbanks and slopes, while the University of Saskatchewan highlights its tolerance of poor, well-drained soils and cold climates. Province of Manitoba

Identification: Sea buckthorn is a thorny shrub with narrow, silvery or grey-green leaves. Male and female flowers occur on separate plants, so only female shrubs carry the fruit. Those fruits are hard to miss: masses of bright yellow-orange or orange berries packed tightly along the branches, often in astonishing numbers.

When to pick: Fruit generally reaches full orange colour around late August or early September, although timing varies with location and cultivar. Picking it is another matter. The berries cling tightly to thorny branches and crush easily when ripe. Manitoba Agriculture estimates hand harvesting at an astonishing 600 labour-hours per acre, which should tell you something about why you don’t often see people strolling around with baskets full of fresh sea buckthorn. Province of Manitoba

What does it taste like? Sour. Very sour.

Scientific sensory work describes sea buckthorn juice as generally sour and astringent, with relatively low sweetness. Underneath all that acidity, though, is an intensely fruity flavour. The University of Saskatchewan compares the berries to pineapple, and I find the overall effect can head toward some combination of tart pineapple, citrus, and passionfruit. The first bite is mouth puckering, so feel free to add sugar or honey and those tropical notes become much easier to notice. PubMed

Sea buckthorn is fantastic for jelly, syrup, curd, sorbet, drinks, vinaigrettes, sauces, desserts, and especially cocktails—in other words, places where its ridiculous acidity becomes an asset rather than an endurance test.

Why don’t you see it in stores? The harvesting problem is a big part of it. The berries cling tightly, the shrubs are thorny, and harvesting remains extremely labour intensive. Sea buckthorn is commercially grown, but processed juice, purée, oils, jams, and other products make considerably more sense than shipping the fresh fruit around in little plastic boxes. I’ve encountered the berries frozen whole in certain specialty shops.


American Persimmon

Diospyros virginiana

An unripe American persimmon is a memorable experience.

Not a good memorable experience, mind you.

Bite into one too early and its tannins can leave your mouth feeling as though every drop of moisture has been vacuumed out of it. Wait until the fruit is properly ripe, however, and it transforms into something extraordinarily sweet, soft, and rich.

American persimmon is native to the eastern and central United States and reaches well into temperate northern areas. It is hardier than the Asian persimmons most people encounter in supermarkets; Penn State notes that American persimmon can tolerate conditions into USDA Zone 4. Wild trees occur across many habitats, with particularly good growth in river bottoms and rich alluvial soils. USFS Research & Development

Identification: American persimmon is a deciduous tree with simple, alternate, elliptical leaves. Mature trees often develop distinctive thick, dark bark divided into square or rectangular blocks sometimes described as “alligator bark.” The round fruits are generally around one to two inches across, ripening to shades of yellow, orange, reddish-orange, or occasionally darker colours, with a conspicuous persistent calyx at the stem end. USFS Research & Development

When to pick: September through November is typical across much of its range. Forget the old rule that persimmons absolutely require frost before they can be eaten: what matters is ripeness. Wild American persimmons should be extremely soft, sweet, and fully mature. If the fruit is still firm and puckery, wait.

What does it taste like? A properly ripe American persimmon has smooth, almost custardy pulp and tremendous sweetness. University of Illinois Extension compares the sweetness and texture to overripe apricot, while improved selections can show flavours reminiscent of mango, honey, caramel, dried dates, brown sugar, maple, and apricot jam. Illinois Extension

That puts persimmon in a funny flavour space somewhere between tropical mango and autumn dessert. Scoop perfectly ripe fruit straight from the skin or run larger quantities through a food mill for persimmon bread, pudding, cakes, sauces, ice cream, or preserves.

Why don’t you see it in stores? You may see Asian persimmons, but wild-type American persimmons are another story. The fruits are smaller, can contain numerous seeds, need to become exceptionally ripe before losing their astringency, and remain unfamiliar to many consumers. The University of Kentucky still classifies American persimmon as a specialty crop whose main markets are direct-to-consumer outlets such as farm stands and farmers markets, rather than large chain grocery stores. MGCafe Publications


Cloudberry

Rubus chamaemorus

This may be the fruit on the list with the greatest disconnect between where it grows and what it tastes like.

Cloudberry (a.k.a. bakeapple in parts of eastern Canada) is an arctic and subarctic member of the raspberry family. It grows across Alaska and Canada (the people of Newfoundland particularly treasure it) as well as Scandinavia, Greenland, Russia, and other northern regions. In North America, look for it in bogs, muskegs, open tundra, marshes, and sphagnum-rich forests and wetlands.

Identification: Instead of a tall raspberry cane, cloudberry grows only a few inches off the ground. Plants have small rounded leaves with several lobes and toothed margins, and flowering stems carry a single white flower. The developing fruit resembles a compact raspberry. It starts reddish and eventually ripens to a soft, translucent peach, amber, or golden colour. University of Alaska Fairbanks

When to pick: In many northern locations, cloudberries ripen from late July into early August, although local timing can vary significantly. Ripe fruits are very soft, amber-coloured, and detach easily. Bring a shallow container—they are delicate enough that piling a large harvest into a deep bucket is a great way to arrive home with cloudberry soup (not that bad an idea now that I say it…).

What does it taste like? Cloudberry has a flavour all its own. It is sweet-tart, aromatic, juicy, and considerably more perfumed than your average northern berry. To me, there’s something apricot-like about it, with citrusy, honeyed, almost tropical qualities underneath. Many say it tastes like a blend of apricot, citrus, passionfruit, pineapple, and honey with floral notes.

There is genuine chemistry behind the unusual aroma: researchers have identified dozens of volatile compounds contributing to cloudberry’s distinctive scent, and later work has even identified vanillin among compounds found in the fruit after heating. PubMed

Cloudberries are excellent fresh, but they are also famously made into jams, jellies, syrups, desserts, and preserves. University of Alaska Fairbanks notes their affinity for vanilla and citrus and describes their use in Scandinavian cloudberry cream as well as western Alaska preparations such as agutak. University of Alaska Fairbanks

Why don’t you see them in stores? Geography and fragility are working against you. Cloudberries favour specialized wild northern habitats rather than convenient agricultural fields, and perfectly ripe berries are extremely soft. Fresh berries are treasured locally in places where they grow, while jam, preserves, syrups, and other processed products are considerably easier to move around the world.


Honourable Mentions: Keep an eye out for ground cherries, whose little golden fruits can taste remarkably like pineapple and other tropical fruit; tart, juicy autumn olives, an invasive shrub worth harvesting rather than spreading; and, farther west and south, cold-hardy prickly pears, whose colourful fruits can suggest watermelon, berries, and tropical fruit punch.


Skip the Mango—At Least for Today

There’s nothing wrong with buying a mango.

I buy mangoes.

But I also think it’s incredibly cool that you can stand under a canopy of maples and oaks and eat something that tastes like mango custard, pull a blue-black fruit from a northern shrub and find something vaguely reminiscent of banana and dried fruit, or wade into a cold northern bog and come home with an amber berry that tastes like it really ought to be growing somewhere with palm trees.

Wild foods have a habit of messing with our expectations like that.

They also make you pay attention. Pawpaws may be perfect for only a matter of days. Persimmons can go from spectacularly unpleasant to spectacularly good simply by being allowed to finish ripening. Cloudberries require the right wetland at the right point in a very short northern summer. Sea buckthorn makes you earn every berry by reaching through a wall of thorns.

That knowledge, the where, when, and how, is a big part of what makes foraging worthwhile.

Just make sure the what comes first.

Identify first. Confirm it again. Harvest responsibly.

Then go find yourself something tropical to eat in the north woods.


Adam Berkelmans

Adam Berkelmans, also known as The Intrepid Eater, is a passionate ambassador for real food and a proponent of nose to tail eating. He spends his time between Ottawa and a cozy lake house north of Kingston, Ontario. When not cooking, he can be found hunting, fishing, foraging, gardening, reading, traveling, and discovering new ways to find and eat food.

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