Panfish with Foraged Green Goddess Dressing
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It’s springtime in Virginia. The trees have burst into pastel-colored bloom, the waters are stirring, and we’re welcoming the rains that wake the sleeping soil. With a freezer fortunately full of venison and a firm but difficult decision to skip turkey season this year, it’s been delightful to turn my gaze back down to the earth.
This year, I yearn to get back into fly fishing and perfect my very intermediate piscine preparation skills. I find fish to be difficult to cook well, and they’re an excellent test of culinary resolve. Besides, fishing is as relaxing as hunting is intense — a time to rest, recover, and reflect. It’s the perfect way to spend a storm-scented vernal evening.

I’ve also decided to expand my foraging horizons. There’s an abundance of non-native herbs around that I’ve long known about, but haven’t tried yet. Of particular interest are native spring ephemerals. These are beautiful, fascinating plants that flower very briefly and under very specific circumstances in early spring. They’re welcome sights as they rise above the dull leaf litter as our hearts warm with the temperatures.
Several spring ephemerals make fine edibles, but should always be responsibly harvested, as they can be quite rare and slow to develop. I just discovered cutleaf toothwort (Cardamine concatenata), also known as pepper root or crow’s toes. From the versatile and user-friendly brassica family, it has a slightly spicy, almost broccoli-like flavor.
The other plants in this recipe are not native, but abundant and tasty. I used a few handfuls of lush chickweed and grassy cleavers, and delicate sweet cicely to stand in for tarragon. The green goddess dressing is based on the original century-old recipe from the Palace Hotel. It’s a wonderful outlet for foraged herbs, with a history as complex as that of the weeds I made it with.

I used black crappie for this recipe, which has become my favorite freshwater fare, building on what I learned from my morel butter-poached crappie. Upon trying this dish, my partner exclaimed “That is excellent. That tastes like our yard.” What a compliment for a locavore! Every ingredient I used was Virginia-sourced, save for the seasonings. Get out there and taste the terroir.
Serving Size: 1-2 servings
Time to make: 30 minutes
Special Equipment: Food processor or electric chopper
Also works with: Bluegill, crappie, bass, or other panfish

Looking for more panfish recipes? Give this Panfish Catch and Cook video by Dan Renna a watch!
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